In Germany Mallorca has the reputation of being a “party island”, similar to Ibiza for the British and Cancun for the Americans. Because of this cliché, I had never been drawn there before, although I had actually heard a lot of good things from friends.

During the 6 weeks that I spent in Mallorca, I had enough time to explore the south and east of the island. North and East are on the next visit.

But, according to Mark Twain, travel is fatal to prejudice, and that’s one of the reasons why I travel in the first place. So I was excited to finally get a first hand experience of the island myself. And I was not disappointed. In the month and a half I spent on Mallorca (from the beginning of September to mid-October) I was able to get to know a beautiful and extremely versatile island.

ahora together with a few other boats in a bay in the east of the island …
… and near Palma Nova in the Bay of Palma.

Fantastic anchorages with crystal clear water, beautiful nature for hiking but also the city of Palma really made me enjoy my stay. The Corona statistics on Mallorca were relatively high this summer, but stable.

Caves and rock formations in the east …
… invite you to explore them with the dinghy
The investment in the snorkeling equipment …
… was definitely worth it.
Even if you shouldn’t get too close to these creatures (as I experienced somewhat painfully on my own …)

Due to the pandemic, the island was eerily empty in places, and in places like Santa Ponsa most hotels and restaurants were shut, even though it was only the beginning of September. What seemed rather depressing in Santa Ponsa was a blessing in Palma. The city, which is usually overflowing with tourists, was now mainly populated by the normal inhabitants. Friends who live there clearly enjoyed having the city to themselves, even if the situation is of course a disaster for the local tourism industry.

Palma without any tourists. A really beautiful city in which I immediately felt at home.

Speaking of friends: I not only met Micha again, who is getting his new boat ready on the island, but also friends from my time in Konstanz and a former fellow crew member of Bark Europa, with whom I sailed to the Antarctic almost 12 years ago. How nice to have friends all over the world! 🙂

“MacGyver” Micha, whom I knew from Porto and from the lockdown in the Algarve

But I also made some new friends: Lars & Alex on their beautiful Tayana 37 “Navika“, the crew from the Northern Shadow and Lena, Andi and Nalu from “free like a boat“. It’s great to see that there are other young people who have chosen a liveaboard lifestyle.

Alex and Lars from Navika
…and Lena, Andy and Nalu, the friendly German sailor family who gave me a warm welcome in the city of Alcúdia!

Even though the water was still very warm and there were many sunny days, you could tell that it was getting autumn. Towards the end of September, almost weekly either a front with strong winds from the west moved across the island, or the mistral kicked in from the east. For me, this meant that I often had to change my anchorage and sometimes had extreme swell at anchor.

Every few days the weather forced ahora and me to “move” …
… which luckily usually always worked out. But it also became a little strenuous in the long run.

Even in places like Porto Colom, where I planned to weather out a storm on a buoy and actually expected 360 degrees protection from swell, the waves were reflected by the rocks in such a way that up to 1.5 meters of steep waves hit the boat from abeam. Absolutely impossible to sleep under these conditions …

Extreme swell at the (usually) protected anchorage in Porto Colom

I hadn’t been to a port since my departure from Alicante in mid-August, but now it was mid-October and the off-season prices were affordable even on Mallorca. So I treated myself to a few days in the harbor in Port de Pollença in the north of the island. But it was also clear that I didn’t want to spend the winter in Mallorca.

Autumn sunset in Alcúdia …
… and evening mood in Port de Pollença.

But it was still a heck of a long way to Greece, where I had initially planned to spend the winter. And I also really wanted to work on my new project (more on that later …)

So the idea came up to stay in Spain for the winter (which I had first rejected because of the expensive port fees). But a friend had raved about the Port Olimpic in Barcelona, where she had been living on board for two years. The prices there are very humane and I really liked Barcelona when I had visited the city 10 years ago. So I made the plan to sail back to mainland Spain at the next suitable weather window. More on this in the next blog post.

But Mallorca was definitely worth a visit, and I am sure this will not be my last time on the island!

All is well


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1 comment
Klaus A. says 21. February 2021

Schöne Beschreibung – und ich dachte schon, Du hättest in Porto Andratx festgemacht ….

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